How To Tune Up Your HVAC

Without annual maintenance, your air conditioning doesn't operate at its peak efficiency and is more likely to lead to expensive repairs down the line. Some maintenance checks require a professional, so have one come out every 2 to 3 years to check the coolant level and electrical parts.

Outside

1. Turn off power to the condenser unit. There should be an electrical box attached to the side of the house in the immediate vicinity of the condenser. When you open this box you will find either a block shutoff that can be removed or a switch to turn off the power.

2. Vacuum the exterior of the unit to remove grass clippings, leaves and other debris using a soft bristled attachment. It's a good idea to bed the area with mulch or paving stones to prevent grass and weeds from growing up around the unit. Any bushes should be pruned back to allow for better air flow.

3. Crushed fins (the metal ridges similar to those on a car radiator or a fish's gills, which act much the same way) can be straightened with a dinner knife. Be gentle, you only want to straighten the bent fins and not puncture anything.

4. Unscrew the retaining screws for the grille/fan assembly on the top of the unit. Remove the grille and fan and remove any debris thats accumulated inside the unit. Wipe away any accumulated grime with a damp cloth.

5. From the inside of the unit, use a garden hose to spray the fins using moderate pressure from a nozzle attachment. You want to flush out accumulated grime and whatever the vacuuming missed.

6. Check the fan motor for lubrication ports or refer to your owner's manual. If availabe (newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated) add 3-6 drops of electric motor oil (not all purpose oil or penetrating oil which can damage the bearings). Older models may have a belt driven compressor which may have lubrication ports as well.

7. Reattach the fan motor / grille assembly.

8. Set your inside thermostat to the off position. Restore power to the condenser unit. Wait 24 hours before resetting the inside thermostat.

Inside

1. Turn the power off to the furnace. There should be a nearby power switch.

2. Check the filter and change if necessary.

3. If you can get to the evaporator, vaccum the fins as you did for the condenser unit.

4. Open the blower compartment and vacuum up the accumulated dust and debris. Check the unit for lubrication ports or refer to the owners manual. If it has them apply electric motor oil to each found.

5. Check the plastic condensation drain tube for algae growth. Either clean the tube with a bleach/warm water solution or replace it with a new one. While you have the tube off, clean any debris from the drain port with a pipe cleaner or test tube brush.

6. Reattach the drain tube, and turn the power back on.

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat

A programmable thermostat can be set to not heat or cool as much when you're not home to enjoy it, thus saving you hundreds of dollars a year. Not too shabby for a $30 investment! This may seem like a daunting task at first, but its really very simple:

1. Turn off power at HVAC unit and trip the breaker.

2. Remove cover from old thermostat and unscrew assembly from the wall. Disconnect the wires and label with terminal designations.

3. Bundle wires together and tie in a slipknot around a pencil or scrap piece of wood, to prevent losing down the gap between the walls.

4. Remove any old corrosion from bare ends of wire with sandpaper. Re-strip about 3/8 inches from end of wires where necessary.

5. Slip wires through new wall plate, and position with level. Using a pencil, mark the holes for the mounting screws. Remove the wall plate, drill the holes, and secure wall plate into position.

6. Connect the wires using terminal designations and/or manufacturers directions. Push the excess wire back through wall plate into gap between walls.

7. Attach front of assembly and cover. Turn power back on, and program your new thermostat.

That's all there is to it!

How To Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

I recently read an article about a science teacher who wanted to see how low he could cut his power bill. His success was so remarkable, that the power company took notice and suspected him of tampering with his meter. Many of the things he did were simple things that any of us could do easily.

1. Insulation. This is a broad topic and I'll be exploring more of this in a later post but for now I'll keep it simple. It's also #1 for a reason, though, as lost conditioned air makes us run our HVAC more than we should.

a. Outlet Pads - These are foam insulation pads that you can buy at most hardware stores. Simply install under your outlet or light switch covers to prevent air moving into or out from between the walls, especially on exterior walls.

b. Fill in the Gaps - Check under the sinks for gaps around plumbing. You'd be surprised how large some of these can be and still go unnoticed. Not only do these gaps allow cool damp air from your crawlspace to flow into your home, but may also be a little thoroughfare for unwanted critters. For larger gaps stuff with steel wool (to help prevent critters from chewing through) and cover with aluminum sided insulating tape. Smaller gaps can be filled with insulating foam.

c. Cover your insulation - Flooring your attic will increase its "R" value, but if you don't have the resources for that at the moment you can buy rolls of heavy plastic to roll out and staple to the joists with a heavy duty staple gun. This can be done in the attic and the crawl-space to help keep the conditioned air in the living space. You don't want the plastic to be airtight as some air should flow from crawlspace to attic (you also don't want to trap moisture in), just to slow it down.

d. Check Your Attic Access - Whether you have pull down stairs or a hatch, check for drafts. Weather-stripping is your quickest, most economical, choice. However, some people's access just won't seal due to warps or what have you, in this case I recommend insulated covers which are pretty cheap (about $30) and easy to install.

e. Check Your Chimney Flue - If you notice a draft coming from the fireplace, I recommend installing a top sealing chimney damper. These actually close off your chimney at the top (no more dead birds to dispose of every winter) and are spring loaded so exceptionally easy to open and close. Very easy to install (if you don't mind going up on the roof, otherwise call a professional) and cost as low as $125.

f. Check the Doors and Windows - Apply weather stripping where needed and fill gaps in the casings if you find any. For older doors and windows consider replacing with their more modern, energy efficient alternatives.

g. Check the Outside - Walk around the exterior of your home. Look for any gaps around exterior faucets, outlets, etc. Fill with a silicon sealant to keep the water out too.

2. Switch out your bulbs - Though slightly more expensive at purchase, fluorescent light bulbs are extremely long lived and energy efficient, you'll more than make up the cost in savings on your power bill.

3. Install a Programmable Thermostat - A programmable thermostat can be set to not heat or cool as much when you're not home to enjoy it, saving you hundreds of dollars a year. Not too shabby for a $30 investment!

4. Fill empty space in refrigerator and freezer with jugs of water. The mass will conserve the temperature in addition to taking up air space that warm air can occupy when you open the door. A full refrigerator and freezer are much more energy efficient that empty ones.

5. Unplug electrical appliances that are seldom used, say in a guest bed-room. Even when they aren't running, appliances will slowly "leak" electrical current.

6. Wait to do full loads of dishes and laundry. Additionally, when doing laundry, use the correct setting for the amount of laundry you're doing.

7. When you have to buy new appliances, always shop around for the ones that are the most energy efficient. After all, you'll probably have them for many years, and the savings will add up.