Tightening or replacing balusters

As a companion piece to the prior post, I thought I'd include how to tighten or replace loose or broken balusters.

Tightening Loose Balusters
Sometimes the settling of the house causes a staircase to sag or twist, which in addition to causing squeaky treads, can loosen the balusters as well. This can easily be repaired with glue and shims. It's best to schedule this project either late in the evening, or prior to leaving the house for an extended period so that the stairs won't be used and the glue has ample time to set.
You can easily buy or make your own wood shims. To make your own shims, cut a strip of wood with the grain running the length of the strip. Make it slightly thicker than the widest gap between the top of the baluster and the handrail. Cut the strip into shims and sand or plane them into wedges. Coat the shims with glue and insert it at the top upstairs side of the baluster. Lightly tap it into position using a mallet or hammer and a block of scrap wood. Once the glue is dry, trim the excess shim flush with the baluster.
Alternatively, you can drill a countersunk hole at an angle through the baluster and into the handrail, using a carpenter screw to tie the baluster and handrail together.

Replacing Damaged Balusters
If the baluster is doweled (peg in hole) start by sawing it in half. Twist sharply to break the glue bond holding the baluster in place, and remove the two halves. Cut the new baluster to the desired length and coat the tread hole with glue. Insert the top end of the new baluster into the handrail, then slide the bottom end across the tread and into the tread hole.
If the baluster is dovetailed, remove the outside tread trim, being careful not to damage it. Saw the baluster flush with the tread, and use a chisel to remove the old dovetail. Cut the new baluster to length, put top into the handrail, and bottom into the now empty dovetail socket. Drill a pilot hole through dovetail and into tread, and attach the two with a nail. Finish by replacing the outside tread trim.
If the baluster is filleted, chisel out fillet on the upstairs side of the baluster being replaced. Tap the baluster loose from nails and remove. Clean old glue from the groove. On the new baluster mark the angles using either the old baluster or a T-bevel, and cut to fit. Set the new baluster against the existing downstairs fillet, and toenail into place. Glue and nail new fillet into the handrail behind the new baluster.

How To Tune Up Your HVAC

Without annual maintenance, your air conditioning doesn't operate at its peak efficiency and is more likely to lead to expensive repairs down the line. Some maintenance checks require a professional, so have one come out every 2 to 3 years to check the coolant level and electrical parts.

Outside

1. Turn off power to the condenser unit. There should be an electrical box attached to the side of the house in the immediate vicinity of the condenser. When you open this box you will find either a block shutoff that can be removed or a switch to turn off the power.

2. Vacuum the exterior of the unit to remove grass clippings, leaves and other debris using a soft bristled attachment. It's a good idea to bed the area with mulch or paving stones to prevent grass and weeds from growing up around the unit. Any bushes should be pruned back to allow for better air flow.

3. Crushed fins (the metal ridges similar to those on a car radiator or a fish's gills, which act much the same way) can be straightened with a dinner knife. Be gentle, you only want to straighten the bent fins and not puncture anything.

4. Unscrew the retaining screws for the grille/fan assembly on the top of the unit. Remove the grille and fan and remove any debris thats accumulated inside the unit. Wipe away any accumulated grime with a damp cloth.

5. From the inside of the unit, use a garden hose to spray the fins using moderate pressure from a nozzle attachment. You want to flush out accumulated grime and whatever the vacuuming missed.

6. Check the fan motor for lubrication ports or refer to your owner's manual. If availabe (newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated) add 3-6 drops of electric motor oil (not all purpose oil or penetrating oil which can damage the bearings). Older models may have a belt driven compressor which may have lubrication ports as well.

7. Reattach the fan motor / grille assembly.

8. Set your inside thermostat to the off position. Restore power to the condenser unit. Wait 24 hours before resetting the inside thermostat.

Inside

1. Turn the power off to the furnace. There should be a nearby power switch.

2. Check the filter and change if necessary.

3. If you can get to the evaporator, vaccum the fins as you did for the condenser unit.

4. Open the blower compartment and vacuum up the accumulated dust and debris. Check the unit for lubrication ports or refer to the owners manual. If it has them apply electric motor oil to each found.

5. Check the plastic condensation drain tube for algae growth. Either clean the tube with a bleach/warm water solution or replace it with a new one. While you have the tube off, clean any debris from the drain port with a pipe cleaner or test tube brush.

6. Reattach the drain tube, and turn the power back on.

How To Fix a Damp Crawlspace and Prevent Mold

The purpose of foundation vents is to allow passing air to carry moisture out of crawlspaces. Except in especially dry climates, this often isn't enough. Even in warm hot summer months the humid moisture laden air will condense on the cooler foundation walls, pipes, ductwork, and even the underside of the flooring. Moisture, still air, and relative darkness is the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew.

One mold inspector/technician I know recommends leaving the vent's open year long (trim hedges or other obstructions back to allow better air flow) and also wiring the crawlspace with low wattage lighting to run 24/7.

These tips will help keep your crawlspace dry and mold free:

1. Create Better Drainage around your home to prevent rainwater from seeping under the foundation. Grade soil to about .5 inch per foot. Import the soil if necessary, if you'll pardon the pun, it's dirt cheap. This step is highly recommended even if you have gutters to direct the rain water coming off your roof. If you do have gutters, make sure the water is directed away from the downspouts and not pooling back to the foundation.

2. Insulate the Exposed Foundation walls with 1.5 inch rigid, moisture-proof insulation such as Thermax, taping the seams. It would also be a good idea to use this same insulation to insulate the rim joists (the joists that sit atop the foundation walls) and caulk to prevent air flow.

3. Cover the Dirt Floor of the crawlspace with a heavy plastic (10-20 mil) moisture barrier. You want the barrier to be mostly continuous (a few accidental holes wont undo the protection and may even help puddles from heavy rains or a busted pipe drain off) so overlap and tape the seams. Attach the plastic at least 6 inches up on the foundation walls.

4. Cap the Interior of the Foundation Wall with a strip of the plastic sheeting and galvanized flashing to complete the moisture barrier. The flashing will also serve as an obstacle to termites (not a complete defense, just a part of your control program.

Better moisture control not only helps prevent mold and mildew growth, but also will help to extend the life of your ductwork, plumbing, pressure tanks, and hot water heaters located in the crawlspace.

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat

A programmable thermostat can be set to not heat or cool as much when you're not home to enjoy it, thus saving you hundreds of dollars a year. Not too shabby for a $30 investment! This may seem like a daunting task at first, but its really very simple:

1. Turn off power at HVAC unit and trip the breaker.

2. Remove cover from old thermostat and unscrew assembly from the wall. Disconnect the wires and label with terminal designations.

3. Bundle wires together and tie in a slipknot around a pencil or scrap piece of wood, to prevent losing down the gap between the walls.

4. Remove any old corrosion from bare ends of wire with sandpaper. Re-strip about 3/8 inches from end of wires where necessary.

5. Slip wires through new wall plate, and position with level. Using a pencil, mark the holes for the mounting screws. Remove the wall plate, drill the holes, and secure wall plate into position.

6. Connect the wires using terminal designations and/or manufacturers directions. Push the excess wire back through wall plate into gap between walls.

7. Attach front of assembly and cover. Turn power back on, and program your new thermostat.

That's all there is to it!

How to Fix Common Toilet Problems

Problem: Water runs constantly
1. Adjust lift chain (or lift wire) so that flapper (or tank ball) seats securely in valve seat.
2. Clean valve seat and flapper or tank ball.
3. Check overflow pipe: if corroded, remove (unscrew) and replace.

Problem: Water overflows into overflow tube
1. Bend float arm down slightly.

Problem: Water continues to run after flushing
1. Bend float arm up slightly
2. Shake float to check if water has gotten inside, if so, replace
3. Clean valve seat and flapper or tank ball.

Problem: Whistling sounds coming from tank
1. Replace washers in ballcock valve plunger (located at top of water inlet pipe in the tank) or
2. Replace whole assembly with newer and more trouble-free floating cup-ballcock assembly.

Problem: Splashing sounds coming from tank
1. Reposition refill tube to flow directly into overflow tube
2. Replace washers in ballcock valve plunger (located at top of water inlet pipe in the tank) or
3. Replace whole assembly with newer and more trouble-free floating cup-ballcock assembly.

Problem: Tank doesn't flush completely / Usually have to flush more than once
1. Shorten lift wires or chains to make tank ball or flapper lift higher
2. Bend float arm up slightly
3. Shake float to check if water has gotten inside, if so, replace.

Problem: Tank sweats
1. Insulate tank by lining with fitted sheets of polystyrene or foam rubber, usually sold as kits at your local hardware store
2. Contact a plumber to install a tempering valve to heat the water in the tank.

Problem: Tank leaks
1. First, check to make sure all connections to tank are tight (be careful to not overtighten and crack porcelain), if so try to isolate where the leak is coming from. Your local hardware store will have dye tablets to help you spot the source of the leak
2. If you can't isolate where the leak is coming from, remove all fittings from the tank, remove the tank, clean, dry, and look for any possible hair-line cracks. If there is a crack, no matter how small, you'll need to replace the tank. However, if no cracks are apparent, now would be a good time to replace all the fittings. Mineral deposits accumulate in a tank over time and accelerate corrosion. I recommend replacing all fittings so you won't have to repeat this process 6 months from now for a different fitting.

Problem: Toilet leaks at base / Smell sewage in bathroom
1. Tighten nuts on base of bowl. Use care to not overtighten and crack porcelain.
2. Turn off water, drain tank, remove nuts and bolts securing bowl to floor. Remove wax seal completely from base of bowl / drain pipe. Replace wax seal following instructions on container. Secure bowl to floor using new nuts and bolts that should come with the wax seal, again, use caution to not overtighten and damage the porcelain.