DIY Drywall Repair

All to often, I've seen lumpy spots on walls, usually behind doors, where Spackle was used to fill a hole larger than it was intended. Drywall, also called plasterboard or gypsum board, is easy to repair, but different methods depending on the size of the repair.

To Fill Dents

1. Clean off loose edges. Sand the depression to roughen its surface. Dip a joint knife into the compound sideways and load about half the blade width. Pull the knife across the dented area with a slow smooth stroke. Position the knife at a 90-degree angle and pull across again to remove excess compound. If the patch shrinks as it dries, apply a second coat.
2. To blend in the repair with its surroundings, sand it very lightly - or smooth it out by wiping with a dampened sponge.
3. Joint compounds, being relatively porous, must be primed before you paint them. Some paints also serve as primers.

Mending Drywall Tape

1. Begin by carefully pulling away the loose tape. Use a sharp knife at edges or you may pull off material from either side as well.
2. Apply compound to the wall, position the new tape, then smooth out any bubbles with light, vertical knife strokes.
3. While the compound is still wet, apply a second coat. Let it dry, then lightly coat again, feather out the edges, and sand or sponge.

Repairing Popped Nails

1. Press the panel against the stud, then drive new nails above and below the old one. Ring-shank types have better holding power.
2. Dimple each nail below the surface with your last hammer blow. Pull the popped nail and fill dimples with compound.
3. After the compound dries, apply a second thin coat, feathering it out at the edges. Wait a day, then sponge, prime, and paint.

Repairing 1-5 Inch Holes

1. Clean away loose drywall and cut off any loose paper. Leave the inner part of the gypsum rough. Cut a piece of wire screen 2" larger than the hole all around. Tie one end of a 12" string to a small stick or pencil, and thread the other end through the center of the screen.
2. Bend the wire screen and insert the stick and screen into the hole. Pull the string until the stick holds the screen flat against the back of the hole. Holding the string taut, fill the hole, working in from the edges. Make sure the compound adheres to the wire screen. Tape the string tightly against the wall with masking tape.
3. When the compound has dried completely, cut the string flush to the wall. When using joint compound, remember it will shrink; apply another layer to bring the patch even with the wall. A third layer may even be needed.
4. Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
5. Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Repairing 5-8 Inch Holes

1. Measure the size of the hole you need to repair. Cut out (at a bevel) a rectangular piece of drywall at least an inch larger than the hole you are patching. Using the patch as a template, place it over the hole and trace. Cut out using the tracing as your guide at the same bevel as the patch.
2. If the patch does not fit well, trim as needed with a utility knife. Spread compound around the beveled edges and fit the patch into place using a little pressure.
3. Smooth compound around the edges of the patch on the wall. Smooth it out and put drywall tape over all joints with the joint knife. At the end of each joint, press the edge of the knife blade in firmly and use as a straightedge to tear off the tape. Sand when dry.
4. Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
5. Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Repairing Holes Larger Than 8 Inches

1. Measure the size of the hole you need to repair. Cut out (at a bevel) a rectangular piece of drywall at least an inch larger than the hole you are patching. Using the patch as a template, place it over the hole and trace. Cut out using the tracing as your guide at the same bevel as the patch.
2. If the patch does not fit well, trim as needed with a utility knife. Spread compound around the beveled edges and fit the patch into place using a little pressure.
3. Smooth compound around the edges of the patch on the wall. Smooth it out and put drywall tape over all joints with the joint knife. At the end of each joint, press the edge of the knife blade in firmly and use as a straightedge to tear off the tape. Sand when dry.
4. Using a wide joint knife, spread a smooth, thin layer of joint compound over the repaired area or over all joints of the new patch. Be sure to extend beyond the damaged part and feather the edges out to the surrounding wall.
5. Wait at least 24 hours. The compound should be dry before you sand it. Use a fine-grade drywall sandpaper on a sanding block. Wear a dust mask when sanding. You may have to repeat these last 2 steps to achieve the desired results.

Replacing Hot Water Heater Elements

Have you ever started to take a shower, gotten all lathered up, then suddenly there's no more hot water. You have to rinse the suds off, so there's nothing to do but endure the icy water as you rush through the rinsing off portion of your morning routine.

Whether you have noticed there isn't as much hot water as there once was, or the water just doesn't get as hot as it once did, the problem is likely that a heating element in your hot water heater has burned out. Fortunately, these are easy to replace so you can save a lot of money by not calling the plumber and doing it yourself by following these simple steps:

1. Turn off the power to the hot water heater.
Locate your fuse box and trip the circuit breaker for the hot water heater before doing anything else.

2. Turn off water.
You're going to be draining the hot water heater, so you do not want water to be filling it up as you try to do so.

3. Drain the hot water heater.
You may have to first remove any insulation that covers the heater. At the foot of the hot water heater is a water spigot. Attach a garden hose to the spigot, with the other end of the hose as down-hill as possible. Turn the knob to open the spigot, open a tap inside, and let gravity do the rest.

4. Remove heater element panels.
Most hot water heaters have two (2) heater elements, each with their own cover panel. They are usually about 6" x 8" and held in place with a single screw at the top, and tabs in slots at the bottom. Remove the screws and set the panels aside.

5. Remove the heater elements.
Heater elements are either secured by screws, or thread in like a spark plug. If under the panels you see what wires leading to 2" x2" boxes held in place by 4 screws, you will need to detach the wires and remove the screws to extract the elements. Otherwise, you will need a heater element wrench, which looks like an over-sized spark plug tool. Detach the wires and use the wrench, turning the elements counter-clockwise to remove. The elements themselves are usually about 10" long U shaped coils, either with a single coil or a pair.

6. Get replacements.
Water heater elements come in all shapes and sizes, so take one with you to the hardware store to make sure you get the right ones. While only one element may be burned out, they are relatively inexpensive so it is a good idea to replace them both at this time.

7. Install your new elements.
Pretty much the reverse of what you did to remove them. You want there to be a good seal, so tighten until firmly secure, but not over-tighten as to strip the screws or threads. Don't forget to reattach the wiring.

8. Flush the water heater.
Sediment and scale is sure to have built up in your hot water heater since it was last serviced, so now is the perfect time to perform a little maintenance. Turn the water back on while leaving the drain open to help flush out as much sediment and scale as possible. You can turn off the inside tap at this point as the pressure release valve will allow air to escape as the water heater fills.

9. Allow to fill.
Once you're confident you've flushed out as much of the sediment and scale as possible, close the drain spigot, remove the garden hose, and allow the water heater to fill up. Inspect the elements for leaks that may indicate cross-threading or needing to be tightened.

10. Finish up.
All that's left to do now is replace the heater element panels, replace the insulation cover, and re-set the circuit breaker.

You should notice an immediate improvement not only in the water being hotter, but also lasting longer. Best of all you did it yourself and saved some money in the process!

DIY Toilet Installation

If your toilet is old or needs repairs, it is often cheaper to replace it by installing a new one. This is very easy to do yourself and can be completed in a single afternoon. However, if you plan on installing a toilet in a new site, you will need to extend supply pipes and drains to the desired location, a job you may want to leave for a plumbing specialist.

Most toilets are sold with the necessary gaskets, washers and hardware for the installation of the tank to the bowl. However, you will also need to buy a new wax ring and a plumbers wrench or 8" channel lock pliers if you do not already have them.

1. Turn off water to the toilet. Use a bucket and a cloth or sponge to remove the excess water remaining in the tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.

2. Using a plumbers wrench or 8" channel lock pliers, remove the nut holding the water line to the ballcock valve on the side or bottom of the tank. Next, use a small wrench to remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove the old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting on the floor or wall - if the water line is of the older plastic variety now would be a good time to consider replacing with the newer woven stainless steel fiber variety.

3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts into the holes of the flange side with the screw heads in the flange slots. Put some wax old in the holes to hold the screws in place. Put the new wax ring in the flange, with the flat side up if tapered.

4. Place the new bowl straight down so that it is centered on the wax ring and the bolts are centered in the holes at the foot of the bowl. Sit on the bowl facing the wall until your weight settles the bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over tighten, as you can break the porcelain bowl. Tighten again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.

5. Next put the 2" rubber gasket on the tank where it attaches to bowl. Put rubber washers on bolts provided and put in holes in bottom of the tank. Place toilet tank on the toilet bowl lining up bolts in the tank with the holes in the back of the bowl. Underneath, thread metal washers and nuts onto the tank/bowl bolts and tighten with fingers. Using a screwdriver on the bolt heads and a crescent wrench underneath, tighten the bolts alternately to keep the tank level. Again, be cautious not to over tighten and break the tank and/or bowl. Reattach the water supply line, snug up the floor flange nuts, turn on water and inspect for leaks.

Handy Tips:

• Adding food coloring to the tank water can help identify hard to see slow leaks.
• Hard rubber washer bumpers can be used to help brace the tank against the wall - however since some sweating of the tank is to be expected these should be placed above the water line to prevent water damage to the wall.
• A new wax ring should be installed every time the bowl is unseated from the floor.

How To Repair A Leaking Tub and Shower Faucet In 3 Simple Steps

You do not have to endure the slow drip from a leaky faucet, or with the growth of stain that often leaves the tub or shower. Fix it now and you will avoid headaches and save those in your water bill too. All work, with special tools, can set you back a bit of money, but doing it yourself is much cheaper than hiring a plumber, and usually much cheaper and easier than dragging the old tap and install a new one.

Worn rubber washers, seals or gaskets in the valve assembly cause more leaks. Here we show how to solve one type of valve, which is common in the elderly, two handle faucets (hot and cold separately). We will not cover a single handle faucets here.

1. Have New Parts Prior To Starting Repair
You can fix most problems with spare parts available at hardware stores and home centers. A distributor of plumbing parts will carry a much larger selection and may be able to special order hard to find items (see "plumbing parts and supplies" in your local Yellow Pages or online). There are thousands of different faucet replacement parts are available, so bring your old pieces to the store for a good game. If your valve is highly corroded or the finish is wearing off, replace the entire faucet.

2. Disassembly
Removing the faucet handle is the hardest part of the job. Over time, corrosion can virtually weld cable to the mast. Remove the handle. If the handle will not fall, do not force it, it can break. Instead, remove them with a special handle puller. Since the handles off, remove the shell and beam. The stem assembly controls the amount and temperature of water dispensed through the shower or tub spout. Remove it with a special key bathed, that looks like a wrench on steroids.

Leaks usually occur for two reasons. Over time, the rigidity of the seat to wash and will not seal tightly. And the water pressure gradually corrodes the metal rim of the seat.Replace bench seat with a special key.

3. Replacing the Stem Parts
Lubricate the parts with special grease plumber. If you are working on a faucet, two treaties, it is recommended to replace the washers and valve seats in both hot and cold.

First, remove the packing nut. Torso twist clockwise and back out of the hood. Pry off the washing machine packing old with a small screwdriver blade or flat pick. Grease the threads of the stem and reinstall the trunk in the hood. Grease the new washing machine packaging and slide it into place, and then grease the threads of the nut and tighten the packing nut packing. Use special grease plumber.

Second, remove the screw from old washing machine and dishwasher chair former headquarters. Grease the dish and wires new headquarters of the new screw and then reinstall them.

Thirdly, remove the cover old washing machine, a new grease and slide it into place.

Fourthly, apply pipe compound to the threads of the cover and reinstall it on the tap body.

Five grease, dealing with splines and replace the shield and handle.

Tightening or replacing balusters

As a companion piece to the prior post, I thought I'd include how to tighten or replace loose or broken balusters.

Tightening Loose Balusters
Sometimes the settling of the house causes a staircase to sag or twist, which in addition to causing squeaky treads, can loosen the balusters as well. This can easily be repaired with glue and shims. It's best to schedule this project either late in the evening, or prior to leaving the house for an extended period so that the stairs won't be used and the glue has ample time to set.
You can easily buy or make your own wood shims. To make your own shims, cut a strip of wood with the grain running the length of the strip. Make it slightly thicker than the widest gap between the top of the baluster and the handrail. Cut the strip into shims and sand or plane them into wedges. Coat the shims with glue and insert it at the top upstairs side of the baluster. Lightly tap it into position using a mallet or hammer and a block of scrap wood. Once the glue is dry, trim the excess shim flush with the baluster.
Alternatively, you can drill a countersunk hole at an angle through the baluster and into the handrail, using a carpenter screw to tie the baluster and handrail together.

Replacing Damaged Balusters
If the baluster is doweled (peg in hole) start by sawing it in half. Twist sharply to break the glue bond holding the baluster in place, and remove the two halves. Cut the new baluster to the desired length and coat the tread hole with glue. Insert the top end of the new baluster into the handrail, then slide the bottom end across the tread and into the tread hole.
If the baluster is dovetailed, remove the outside tread trim, being careful not to damage it. Saw the baluster flush with the tread, and use a chisel to remove the old dovetail. Cut the new baluster to length, put top into the handrail, and bottom into the now empty dovetail socket. Drill a pilot hole through dovetail and into tread, and attach the two with a nail. Finish by replacing the outside tread trim.
If the baluster is filleted, chisel out fillet on the upstairs side of the baluster being replaced. Tap the baluster loose from nails and remove. Clean old glue from the groove. On the new baluster mark the angles using either the old baluster or a T-bevel, and cut to fit. Set the new baluster against the existing downstairs fillet, and toenail into place. Glue and nail new fillet into the handrail behind the new baluster.