How To Tune Up Your HVAC

Without annual maintenance, your air conditioning doesn't operate at its peak efficiency and is more likely to lead to expensive repairs down the line. Some maintenance checks require a professional, so have one come out every 2 to 3 years to check the coolant level and electrical parts.

Outside

1. Turn off power to the condenser unit. There should be an electrical box attached to the side of the house in the immediate vicinity of the condenser. When you open this box you will find either a block shutoff that can be removed or a switch to turn off the power.

2. Vacuum the exterior of the unit to remove grass clippings, leaves and other debris using a soft bristled attachment. It's a good idea to bed the area with mulch or paving stones to prevent grass and weeds from growing up around the unit. Any bushes should be pruned back to allow for better air flow.

3. Crushed fins (the metal ridges similar to those on a car radiator or a fish's gills, which act much the same way) can be straightened with a dinner knife. Be gentle, you only want to straighten the bent fins and not puncture anything.

4. Unscrew the retaining screws for the grille/fan assembly on the top of the unit. Remove the grille and fan and remove any debris thats accumulated inside the unit. Wipe away any accumulated grime with a damp cloth.

5. From the inside of the unit, use a garden hose to spray the fins using moderate pressure from a nozzle attachment. You want to flush out accumulated grime and whatever the vacuuming missed.

6. Check the fan motor for lubrication ports or refer to your owner's manual. If availabe (newer models have sealed bearings that can't be lubricated) add 3-6 drops of electric motor oil (not all purpose oil or penetrating oil which can damage the bearings). Older models may have a belt driven compressor which may have lubrication ports as well.

7. Reattach the fan motor / grille assembly.

8. Set your inside thermostat to the off position. Restore power to the condenser unit. Wait 24 hours before resetting the inside thermostat.

Inside

1. Turn the power off to the furnace. There should be a nearby power switch.

2. Check the filter and change if necessary.

3. If you can get to the evaporator, vaccum the fins as you did for the condenser unit.

4. Open the blower compartment and vacuum up the accumulated dust and debris. Check the unit for lubrication ports or refer to the owners manual. If it has them apply electric motor oil to each found.

5. Check the plastic condensation drain tube for algae growth. Either clean the tube with a bleach/warm water solution or replace it with a new one. While you have the tube off, clean any debris from the drain port with a pipe cleaner or test tube brush.

6. Reattach the drain tube, and turn the power back on.

How To Fix a Damp Crawlspace and Prevent Mold

The purpose of foundation vents is to allow passing air to carry moisture out of crawlspaces. Except in especially dry climates, this often isn't enough. Even in warm hot summer months the humid moisture laden air will condense on the cooler foundation walls, pipes, ductwork, and even the underside of the flooring. Moisture, still air, and relative darkness is the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew.

One mold inspector/technician I know recommends leaving the vent's open year long (trim hedges or other obstructions back to allow better air flow) and also wiring the crawlspace with low wattage lighting to run 24/7.

These tips will help keep your crawlspace dry and mold free:

1. Create Better Drainage around your home to prevent rainwater from seeping under the foundation. Grade soil to about .5 inch per foot. Import the soil if necessary, if you'll pardon the pun, it's dirt cheap. This step is highly recommended even if you have gutters to direct the rain water coming off your roof. If you do have gutters, make sure the water is directed away from the downspouts and not pooling back to the foundation.

2. Insulate the Exposed Foundation walls with 1.5 inch rigid, moisture-proof insulation such as Thermax, taping the seams. It would also be a good idea to use this same insulation to insulate the rim joists (the joists that sit atop the foundation walls) and caulk to prevent air flow.

3. Cover the Dirt Floor of the crawlspace with a heavy plastic (10-20 mil) moisture barrier. You want the barrier to be mostly continuous (a few accidental holes wont undo the protection and may even help puddles from heavy rains or a busted pipe drain off) so overlap and tape the seams. Attach the plastic at least 6 inches up on the foundation walls.

4. Cap the Interior of the Foundation Wall with a strip of the plastic sheeting and galvanized flashing to complete the moisture barrier. The flashing will also serve as an obstacle to termites (not a complete defense, just a part of your control program.

Better moisture control not only helps prevent mold and mildew growth, but also will help to extend the life of your ductwork, plumbing, pressure tanks, and hot water heaters located in the crawlspace.

Habitat for Humanity - Give to the Community and Learn

A couple of disjointed thoughts that leads me to this post:

1. I just finished reading an article about homeless dumping and it got me thinking about a couple of things. Chiefly, giving here at home.

2. My mom, who gives much to her church sponsored charities, was asked to give to a specific charity at work. She told them that she had already given to that same charity at her church. She was told that her contribution was mandatory because her employer wants to be recognized as a charitable organization in the community!

Giving back to the community isn't about recognition, but that doesn't mean that we can't benefit from it. For the DIY'er I recommend giving to your local Habitat for Humanity for several reasons and in several ways:

Donate Supplies

When you replace a light fixture, cabinets, windows or what-have-you, if the ones being replaced are still usable and in good condition consider donating them to the local habitat projects. Usually, it only requires a phone call and they'll come pick it up. It's win-win. You don't have to cart it to the dump, it's not occupying space in a land-fill, and it's going to continue to serve its purpose for someone who will be grateful to have it.

Donate a Weekend

This is where you get something back other than the good feeling from knowing you've done something worthwhile. When you give your time you'll probably meet some very knowledgeable people that you can learn from. You also might find yourself using tools you previously never used because you didn't know how. You can apply what you learn to your own sweat-equity projects around the house, and you might even make some friends that you can call on in a pinch.

It's also important to note that anyone can give their time. If you want to give but are afraid of heights, they're not going to have you laying shingles. If you don't know the difference between a screwdriver and a socketdriver, they'll either show you how to do it or put you to work doing something you're comfortable with.

The Habitat link above is for the habitat.org website. Many community chapters have their own websites as well.